Light Air Work

john everingham
Wings, Switchblade, Pheonix

We sailed with these guys all week at the 2008 Phang Nga Bay Regatta

On the Beach

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Fred & Judy

One of our stops on the Phang Nga Bay Regatta was Phi Phi Don Island where we had a nice party on the beach at Erawan Resort

Leading at the Start

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Wings In Front

We had excellent starts all week. This is day one and we started level with Yasooda(GBR 703R), the 70ft boat just behind us, but we were well ahead of the other boats and we stayed ahead of them most of the day. In the end though Pheonix (JPN 777) beat us to the finish and we settled for second.

One thing to notice is that all of these boats have a lot more people on them than we did. We consider that to be an advantage for us. Maybe we had to work harder, but we were lean and mean. Pierre Judy and I had full concentration and I think it helped.

A Drifter

john everingham
Finishing

We drifted across the line on day 1 while the boats that finished ahead of us motor to the party.

IOR Dinosaurs Battle Downwind

john everingham
Switchblade and Wings

These two old boats are IOR designs, the dinosaurs of sailboat racing, completely obsolete by todays standards. Switchblade, a Farr 43, is an IOR boat of similar vintage as Wings but they were in Racing class and we were in Cruising class. We started together however and raced together all week. They owe us time under IRC and we sailed well against them; beating them in corrected time on most days. Here we are ahead and sailing a lower course while they reach for speed behind us.

Light Air Sailing

john everingham
Wings Leads Pheonix

Light air, calm water; this was a fun day. We led Pheonix and most of the other boats but ended in second place.

MaDuZi & Wings

john everingham
MaDuZi & Wings

On most days we were able to stay ahead of the 53ft MaDuZi

Choong Lat Anchorage

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Ragin Cajun

Ragin Cajun passes the anchored multihull fleet in Choong Lat anchorage. I felt that this is the most beautiful anchorage in Phang Nga Bay, maybe the most beautiful we've been in ever.

This boat typifies the variety of yachts which complete in the Phang Nga Bay Regatta: there were six classes from Racing to Multihull and the fleet included a One Design class for Firefly 850 cats, a Sunsail chartboat class, and two cruising classes. We sailed in Cruising A, under IRC ratings, and started with the Racing Class. It was fun.

Concentration

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Fred & Pierre

Light air sailing takes concentration; we had it.

Resting Up

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Phoenix

We thought it was a hard race to Choong Lat but apparently Neils'crew on Phoenix also thought so. Immediately after arriving in Choong Lat they all collapsed on the deck and didn't move for an hour or so.

We went swimming.

Phoenix, an X-3/4 ton racer was the lightest and raciest boat in the fleet, sailed by a top crew, and they somewhow found their way into the cruising division. We tried hard but we could never beat them.

Longtail fishermen

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Light Air

Day one was a shifty light air beat across the flats to Choong Lat. Here we lead Switchblade and only Yasooda is ahead of us. The shifts and holes ahead gave everyone opportunities; for a while we led the fleet, but in the end we were forth to finish overall, 2nd in class. It was encouraging though as it showed us that we could definately sail boat for boat with all the racing fleet even with our cruising gear and only three of us. The other boats were stripped out and had full crews.

Reaching

wingssail image-judy jensen

Big A

On day three we had a good wind angle and a nice breeze to give us an exciting spinnaker reach down to Phi Phi Island. After great start we were in front until the spinnaker set then the big boats all powered up and roared ahead; it was a waterline day. We held off Horst Lakits' Big A for as long as we could, finally with the finish line in sight and our time saved, I waved him by and they sailed over us and off into the distance.

Really great racing.

View Astern

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Passing Phi Phi

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Pheonix and Scame

On the last day the fleet sailed downwind to Phuket Island passing Phraya Nak Island (part of the Phi Phi group) in the distance. It looks calm and easy in this photo but the light winds (10 knots) and choppy seas tossed the boats around and made spinnaker trimming a nightmare.

As always we were focused on Pheonix, the X-boat 3/4 tonner in the background with the white spinnaker, who hounded us every day and beat us on corrected time. Tough competition.

The bigger boat in the photo is Scame, Daniel and Janine Ballian's beautiful 1971 72 foot, Italian built, wood cutter. The Ballians have been sailing Scame, under French flag, for 30 years.

Committee Boat

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Seraph


Tom Howard's beautiful Thai registered 1908 schooner Seraph served as committee boat for the regatta. Each time I saw this boat it took me back in time 100 years to when yachts were made of timber and had a beauty and grace which modern yachts, even the gold platers, do not replicate.

Ao Nang

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We sailed to Krabi Province and anchored at Ao Nang. This tourist town is pleasant, nice resturants, and stores, and no cheap sex trade bars like some of the other parts of Thailand.

In the background of this photo you can see the Chicken Islands, named that because they look like a bunch of chickens to some.

Krabi Town

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Krabi Town

About 40 minutes by road, or an equal distance up the river, lies Krabi Town, a far cry from the tourist communities like Ao Nang. We have a good lunch here and found some nice fruit and veggies at a market.

Plying the Waters

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Water Taxi

In the Phuket Area most of the water traffic is in these wooden long tail boats; they are ubiquitous. I rather liked them and I never tired of watching them cruise around with the propellor shooting out a roostertail behind. The problem is that they are noisy and the ones in Krabi are the worst: They have four cyl automobile engines and no mufflers, plus, the drivers run them at full throddle which makes them sound particularly obnoxious.

Back Breaking Work

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Jellyfish landed

In Krabi Province we saw hundreds of fishing boats netting these large jellyfish. We heard variously that these creatures are eaten in China or used in cosmetics in Japan.

Either way, the work looked brutal: each jellyfish was about the size of a basketball, and about as heavy as the seawater they are filled with. The man in the bow spots the jellyfish, directs the driver towards it, dips the net in under the floating jellyfish then lifts it into the boat.

Longtail Driver

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Fisherman

Gold

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Fishing Boat Passes

Relaxing on Deck

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Ao Labu Anchorage

On Yao Yai Island there is a large bay called Ao Labu. We sailed here from Yacht Haven and dropped the hook. This anchorage has great protection in the normal NE winds of this time of the year, and even some protection from an afternoon SW sea breeze, as this picture shows.

With a glass of Thai Whisky and my camera handy I put my feet up and relaxed on deck to enjoy Ao Labu.

The Sun Drops over Phuket Island

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Sunset at Ao Labu

I sat on deck and watched the whole sunset, for at least an hour.

From this spot anchored on the west side of Koh Yao Yai we could see almost the entire length of Phuket Island. At the right end of this photo is the beginning of the "river" seperating Phuket from the mainland. This is where Yach Haven is located.

On the left is the hill at the south end of Phuket between Ao Chalong and Kata Beach.

Tree

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Ao Labu

Shadow of the Headland

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Railay Bay

In the early part of the day the sun is still behind the headland, and it is quiet in the anchorage.

Wings in Thailand

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Railay Bay

One of the most beautiful anchorages ever, Railay Bay in Ao Nang Bay, Krabi Province, Thailand

We stayed here a week.

Most days we'd have all the awnings up for shade but last night it blew like stink in the anchorage and we took down the awnings and the national ensign; the noise of the all flapping made it hard to sleep. We'll get them all up again soon.

The Beach Called Pranang

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Pranang

One of our guidebooks called this beach "Pranang Beach". During the day it was crowded with tourists but by late afternoon they had all left.

Railay Bay

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Wings and other boats

The scale of this anchorage at Railay Bay kept us in awe. I think there are very few places where one can take a sailboat and drop and anchor with this kind of surroundings.

Under the Headland

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Railay Bay

The landforms of this part of Thailand dominate the scene.

Railay Bay

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Railay Bay Beach Scene

There are no roads into or out of Railay Bay in Ao Nang area of Krabi Province. All of the visitors, and there a many of them, come by boat.

Tree Top Walker

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Spectacled Langur

Linda on Nimbus told us there were monkeys in Railay Bay. We were intrigued and went out the next afternoon armed with a long lens on the Nikon to try to get some shots of them. This Spectacled Langur Monkey in a tree caught the attention of several sunbathers on the nearby beach and we followed their pointing fingers with our eyes and spotted him in the tree. I found a few others and in the end I got several good photos of Macaques but this was the only Langur we saw.

Click here to see the other shots we got of the monkeys.

Wall Dancing

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3 men at work

On this wall at Tonsai Bay rock climbers and students line up to try out their skills. We watched for an hour and appreciated their skill and strength.

Getting a Grip

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Woman in Yellow Shirt

We watched this woman for a while and she seemed stalled at one outcrop; we didn't think she would get past it and we decided she lacked skill or strength, but a few moments later we looked again and she had overcome that obstacle and was way farther up the face and moving with persistence and determination.

Speed Climber

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Tonsai Bay

This climber scaled the wall at Tonsai Beach like spiderman; he hardly slowed at any point.

Blonde on the Rocks

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Climbing The Stones Bar

The scene at the Railay Highlands hangout called the Stone Bar was less frenetic than Tonsai Bay but the climbers were around. We watched this blonde woman in what looked like a mini-skirt walk up to the wall, hook up to the ropes, and start up the face. Using my 400mm lens I caught this shot of her about 200 feet up the face.

Rock Cat

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Tonsai Bay Rock Climber

They could be surfer dudes, ski-bums, or any kind of tough, edgy, focused, risk-taking atheletes. At Tonsai Bay there is one of those a gatherings of people who travel to far parts of the world to participate in their sport and are really into it. They don't fit the tourist pattern and they make Tonsai Bay a different place than the crowd that hangs out at the 5 star resorts nearby.

Trees & Sun

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Railay Highlands

Inside Phang Nga Cave

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Judy looks at stalactites

We found this cave, one of many in the Krabi area, and explored for a while. With a walkway and lights, the exploration part was more like a stroll.

Looking For Something To Do today?

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Chicken Islands

If rock climbing or caving are not your bag maybe a day at the beach on an island in paradise would suit you? This island, one of the Chicken Islands south of Krabi, has warm water and a nice beach and maybe a small bar and restaurant if the cook came out, and you can catch a long-tail from Ao Nang and be there in 20 mins.

Parking Lot in Paradise

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Water Taxis at Chicken Islands

If you are staying in Krabi and want to go to the Chicken Islands for the day you catch a taxi at Ao Nang or Railay. It costs about $10, round trip. The long tail boat waits for you and when you are ready to go home they take you back.

Kayaking in Krabi

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Kayakers

From my vantage point in the middle of the bay off Railay Beach I could see all the water based activity, including these kayakers exploring the islands.

Fun Trip

Tourists take boat ride in Long-tail

I sat in a busy traffic lane in the dingy and snapped photos of passing long-tails.

Photo Opportunity

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Pretty Girls

These girls caught me taking their picture, they smiled, then they were gone.

Afternoon Shadows

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Tonsai Beach

Tonsai beach, Ao Nang, Krabi Province, is surrounded by cliffs which cut it off from road access; you only get there by boat. It has a number of low budget accomodations appealing to backpackers and rock climbers plus a number of beach bars. Dave on Nimbus called it a "Rasta-Man Backpacker kind of a place".

He described it accurately.

It is a busy community but from offshore, anchored on Wings, we can hardly tell that there is anything there until night time when the lights come on and the music starts.

The name of this place caused us some confusion. There is also a Ton Sai Bay, on Phi Phi Island.

Tonsai Beach, Ao Nang

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Wings

The cliffs at Tonsai Beach provide a stunning backdrop for the Wings anchored in the bay.

Rayavadee Beach

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Quiet Time

During the day Rayavadee Beach is crowded with tourists, but by sundown they have almost all left; the beach is empty, the anchorage is quiet.

Going Ashore-Judy Looking Great

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Judy

We were driving ashore in the dingy one afternoon and Judy was sitting in the front looking at the scenery and the light was good so I picked up my camera from the floor of the dingy and pointed it at her and said "Smile". Judy turned to me and turned on a smile like she just threw a switch; I thought that she must have had some modeling training sometime. "Lights, camera, action..." and she is on, and looking great.

Golden Boat

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Ao Labu, Phuket Island in Background

Sunset

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We sat at a bar on the beach and watched a huge sun set over Wings, anchored offshore.

Mementos of Good Day

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Wine, Whiskey, and a Nikon

I packed this camera around the Krabi province and captured a bunch of images. Most will be junk, quickly sent to the recycling bin, but it was a good day. Back on the boat a glass of whiskey burned sweetly and I looked back on the day with satisfaction; even if I don't get one good shot, I'm working at it.

As night falls we pour some red wine to have with dinner and pull the cover off the BBQ. Later I will go through the images and see what I've got.